Majuli is in a process of uncontrolled erosion. It is being destroyed and everything is going under water. It is now much smaller than it used to be 15 years ago. When I was a small boy, I had heard that the farming fields of Majuli were very fertile. It was a place where a sumptuous feast was no problem. During the rain, the fields get flooded. The silt that the floods lay is the cause of the fertility uncommon in Assam. Potato, rice and various vegetables are chiefly cultivated. Besides this, even now fishing is done widely and a great catch is a common affair. You will be surprised that both small and big fishes are the main constituents of a traditional Majuli meal. Also, milk & curd are widely available.
I have visited Majuli once. It was in 2007 November to see the Raslila, the theatrical performance of the birth of Krishna and the stories related with it. It is a major event held annually in November. Majuli is about 25km from Jorhat. Jorhat is the place nearest to it. From Jorhat town you will have to take a taxi to Nematighat (17km), where you will get ferry ( big sized boats carrying lots of people and vehicles) to go to Majuli. The ferry ride is about 2hrs 20 minutes depending upon the season (if rainy it takes longer). You get down at Kamalabari ghat in Majuli and take a taxi to Garmur. In Garmur there are 3 small lodges. We stayed in the bamboo one. It takes one full day to tour Majuli. And the places to see are the 4 centers of pilgrimage, also called Satras. Each of them look different. The first one is a simple worship hall where you will see earthen lamps and the other objects related to worshipping. The 2nd & 3rd are well-built complexes with museums and guest houses. The forth is where you find the unique earthen handmade colorful masks. During the tour, you will see that Majuli has a scenic beauty. The water bodies, the lonely & sandy roads, the wonderful sunset and birds are all that constitute Majuli.
Raslila is held at night in the satra auditorium.It is actually a play and you will enjoy it. Loud music and roaring voices fill the air. The actors move vigorously on the well-decorated stage relating the story. The part of the play for which the audience wait to see, is when the background curtain is raised to show the full moon and the cows grazing in the field behind the stage. The play ends just before morning.
Inspite of the heavy erosion Mujuli is still fit for tourists. A person from any part of the world can come up to Kaziranga and go a little further to reach Jorhat & from there go to Majuli. You can do a lot of fishing, boating and bird watching to distress your mind there.
The only problem is that Majuli is still very backward.Proper market places are rare. Standard hotels and food is not readily available. Majuli in short is an island village.
Sunny days are few here. But still bright dry days are not rare and can be the best time to make a trip to this wild and sparsely populated place. There are many sites to visit in Cherrapunjee. But what should not be missed are the spectacular water falls. No one hates a silent, natural and isolated place if he spends only a few moments there.
Here is some useful information for a tourist who is thinking of undertaking a trip to Cherrapunjee.
Visit Cherrapunjee in early summer (March to May) to enjoy the rain as well as the waterfalls. But if you want a bright sunny weather go in February (note you won’t find the waterfalls then). It is better not to venture into Cherrapunjee in June & July as there are thunder storms. There is lightening at head level which is dangerous and strong winds will always blow away your umbrella. The rain almost never stops.
Cherrapunjee has a good network of lanes but has too many of them to confuse a new driver. So do not go alone if you are new. There are now sigh boards fixed that show the way to a spot.
Stay in Shillong ( there are many cheap hotels) and make a day trip to Cherrapunjee. Take a conducted tour in a bus. It is cheaper and you won’t miss a spot. But if you are an explorer hire a taxi. You can also take a guide but choose a good one. You will find a MTDC office and a private tour agency at Police Bazar, Shillong who will cater to your needs.
Orchids can be seen growing wildly in Cherrapunjee. Birds and animals are few. But there is greenery all around. One popular variety of flower that is seen here and there on the hill slopes is the Rhododendron. It is a small tree with pink flowers.
In Cherrapunjee you will see many coal mines with hips of coal around.
Rain is a menace here in summer. Better bring a rain coat or a strong umbrella will do.
You need not stay in Cherrapunjee. There are many good cheap hotels in Shillong. You will only have to do some searching on foot.
There are 8 sites to see in Cherrapunjee. You can see more but it will take more time. The typical 8 spots takes a single day. Start early.
1.The first spot is a point on the way. It is called Mawdok View point. There is a small hanging bridge and you can climb down a long line of curving stairs to reach a plateform from which you can view a great valley.Climbing up & down is very tiring due to the cold.
2.The next stop is at the Ramkrishna Mission. There is a museum, a book shop, a temple and a place where a rain gause is kept and from where you can see Mawsynram. Big packs of Dalchini (Cinnamon) can be got here.
3.&4. The 3rd & 4th points are two waterfalls. They are beautiful and magestic.
5.Next comes the Mawsmai cave. It is lighted inside and if you dare you can somehow manage to enter, and leave at the backside. Lunch is available at this point only.
6.Mawtrop is the place where Bangladesh is seen. In winter atmospheric dust blocks the view. There is a mighty natural monolith near the view point. A pillar like rock made to represent the burial place of an ancestor is a Khasi monolith.
7.& 8. The last two spots are parks. They are simple: one with an orchidarium and the other with a cliff which is the mouth of a waterfalls.
There are small stalls at each spot where you can have tea and snacks. No road maps of Cherrapunjee are available at present. But here are some images which will help you to identify the tourist spots.
